Basics for jigging along the NSW coast by Elii English

The technique of jigging has been around as long as people have been catching fish, although modern jigging has evolved substantially since then. Whether you're targeting back breakers in the depths of the abyss, or inshore pinnacles and reefs for a variety of table fish, the technique of jigging can be applied to almost every offshore scenario, with styles of jigs and techniques constantly evolving! These techniques have been proven to be highly effective on the inshore and offshore reefs of this great country.
When starting out offshore jigging, the range of jigs, tackle, reels and rods can be overwhelming; especially with today's market of fishing gear available. There are so many situations where a jig can be highly successful, such as schooled up kingfish in deep water or shallow water, micro-jigging for species such as snapper and pearl perch just to name a few. In this article I will explain the basics of offshore jigging to give you a starting point to navigate this particular style of fishing. Hopefully it will land you some dinner or maybe even a trophy!
TECHNIQUES
AND STYLE
There are several dozen styles of jigs out there but they can be narrowed into two overarching techniques: mechanical/knife jigging and slow/fall style jigging. Each style can be used in a variety of scenarios or for a variety of species, however some styles are better suited to a particular species than others.
Slow/fall jigging
Slow/fall jigs are best for inshore pinnacles and table fish, but can also used be for larger pelagic or sportfish, depending on conditions. This technique is generally used in depths between 15-60m, with species such as snapper, pearl perch and mulloway responding well to jigs in this depth.
Make use of your plotter and sounder to look for pinnacles, bait balls and ledges in this depth range. When you approach the reef, avoid motoring directly on top of where you intend to fish. Species such as snapper and mulloway are known to be shy, and the sound of the motor generally shuts them down in shallow waters.
Give your intended spot a wide berth, figure out what angle you're drifting, then make your drift. Anything over 1 knot is considered a relatively fast drift, and you may need a sea anchor to slow you down, however if you don't have one sometimes just stepping up the jig weight can help.
Anchoring should be avoided, as this causes you to fish vertically, reducing the area in which you fish. Drifting enables you to cover as much ground as possible, and is therefore considered superior and more effective.
When it comes to the technique, it can differ from day to day, but reading your sounder is a key factor. If the fish are sitting high on the sounder, simply match that depth with the retrieve of your jig.
A slow fall jig works best with an outwards roll with the wrist, moving the rod back towards your body, picking up the slack and repeating. You'll find it easier to repeat this action before you have contact with the jig (while your line is slack), otherwise you'll just be dragging it through the water rather than 'jigging' it.
Snapper, pearl perch and mulloway will generally feed on the ocean floor, so keep your jig down there! Keeping the jig in the bottom third of the water will help target these fish. Moving the jig upwards from the bottom to the top third of the overall water depth, then dropping it back down is most effective. For example, if you're fishing in 15m of water, start your jig on the bottom and jigging it up 5m off the bottom before dropping it back. This takes practice, but there's no point fishing 15m under the boat when you're fishing a 50m pinnacle and the fish are on the bottom.
Current and wind should be taken into account when drifting. Having a wide range of weights in your bag is key! Generally in 15-30m of water, jigs could range from 20-60g, depending on the strength of the current and wind speed. In depths of 40-60m, between 80-120g is essential. You want a slow fall, but not so slow that you're not getting to the mark on time. If the current and wind are strong and in the same direction, stepping up your weight will be necessary, as this will almost double your drift speed depending on the day.